The Dutch design duo discuss inspiration, muse and and all the pieces in between.
Perfume has lengthy been about fantasy, and for vogue duo Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren of the Amsterdam-based luxurious couture home Viktor & Rolf, that figment is an extension of oneself. “Via perfume, one can talk with out talking; it will probably set off reminiscences and feelings,” say the synchronized Dutch visionaries (they’ve a behavior of ending one another’s sentences) over tea and pastries of their 4 Seasons Lodge Montreal suite, the place we meet to debate their latest launch, Flowerbomb Dew. Perfume additionally carries sartorial-esque powers. “The selection of fragrance—candy, contemporary, large, discreet—says one thing in regards to the wearer, similar to a well-chosen outfit.”
In 2005, Horsting and Snoeren dropped a bomb that disrupted the perfume world with each its design and scent. Their iconic Flowerbomb—an unapologetically candy oriental floral housed in a hand grenade-shaped bottle—marked the very first fragrance for his or her eponymous label. “We understand design as a laboratory through which to experiment and push boundaries,” replicate the designers. “In doing so, you shock your self and create one thing new and thrilling.”
Since its profitable debut effectively over a decade in the past, the unique over-the-top floral, which is laced with jasmine, orange blossom and patchouli, has racked up a cult following, and several other quirky and attention-grabbing flankers and restricted editions that echo Horsting and Snoeren’s collective boundary-pushing imaginative and prescient have since adopted. “Our purpose as vogue and perfume artists has not modified through the years,” say the duo. “We purpose to be authentic and to make expressive and daring statements. We’ve at all times translated our model’s DNA into our fragrances, with the mission to create spectacular magnificence.”
This spring, the designers have deployed a brand-new rendition of their signature grenade. Dubbed Flowerbomb Dew, it’s a extra delicate floral revamp of their olfactory methods. “The Flowerbomb Assortment is a household with varied intensities; you’ve gotten the basic, which is an explosion of flowers, and now we needed to create a ‘sister’ for an individual who likes Flowerbomb however desires one thing a bit softer,” explains Snoeren, who describes Flowerbomb Dew as having a extra rose-filled aroma.
The designers known as upon main perfumers Domitille Michalon Bertier, Carlos Benaïm and Dominique Ropion from the Manhattan-based Worldwide Flavors & Fragrances Inc. to assist them conceptualize the bouquet. And just like the eye-catching pearly-white bottle, the brand new juice inside is an equally creative feat. First comes a swoon of juicy pear and bergamot essence, adopted by a “dewy rose” accord (a hybrid backyard rose from the tea rose household that’s grown in water) and iris on the coronary heart. Finally, a musky and woody drydown settles on the pores and skin for an aura that’s “intimate and private.” As for the wearer of this floriental musk? “We envision somebody who’s intelligently glamorous and daringly stylish—an icon in their very own proper,” say the designers.
In the identical manner that scents can set off vivid reminiscences and visceral connections to one thing, so, too, can fashion-forward, bar-raising fragrance campaigns for these designers. “Fragrances usually have been like my portal into the style world,” reminisces Horsting about his youthful years. “The advertisements have been at all times inspirational.” Probably the most memorable picture for Horsting? Dior’s 1985 launch of Poison, a spicy floral spritz housed in a spherical purple bottle. Within the accompanying visible, a mannequin poses along with her arms artfully crossed whereas her arms clutch a number of flacons. “That could be a visible I clearly keep in mind,” he says. “I might take a look at it for hours.”
As for Snoeren’s favorite vintage-campaign second? Yves Saint Laurent’s 1977 print advert for Opium; it’s fronted by legendary mannequin Jerry Corridor, who’s photographed mendacity within the foreground of the surroundings. “It’s extraordinarily opulent, with orchids and gold—it’s insane,” says Snoeren.
Visible storytellers by nature, Horsting and Snoeren tapped American actress Anya Taylor-Joy to seize the concepts of their trendy Flowerbomb Dew juice. “Anya completely embodies the message we need to share,” voice the duo. “She is sensual, mysterious and highly effective abruptly. To us, she displays a decided, outspoken and self-aware lady impeccably.” For the marketing campaign, a fresh-faced Taylor-Pleasure, clad in a ruffled shirt, attracts consideration in a radiant however delicate manner. And for an actress who has carved a profitable area of interest for herself starring in darkish thrillers, it’s a distinct type of expression. “In all the pieces we do, there is a component of contradiction; transformation is vital in our work,” clarify Horsting and Snoeren. “Flowerbomb displays this strategy. The title is a paradox: It’s a contemporary type of flower energy.”
BACKSTAGE PASS
Like their fantastical, avant-garde designs, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren have an suave manner of blessing showgoers with tantalizing hair and make-up. Forward, among the designers’ most unforgettable seems to be.
Purchase Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb Dew here.
